Sunday, November 17, 2013

German Stereotypes

Growing up in the USA, we have been exposed to several stereotypes of "typical" Germans. 

The series "Hogan's Heroes" showed us bumbling, nearsighted German officers who were kind when bribed with a chocolate candy bar or outwitted easily by more intelligent Americans. More serious World War II films starring John Wayne or Charles Bronson showed us the rigid, immovable German officer who took it upon himself to punish "good" American military men, with no mercy. Their tactics seemed so cruel and inhuman. A lot of Americans grew up in fear of Germans, if they watched enough of these films. We were led to believe that every German man is a Nazi in the Gestapo. That's just not true.

Another stereotype we grew up with was the beer-drinking, Lederhosen-wearing, fat, blonde German man who toasted his beer Stein and sloshed beer all over himself and his comrades. (As I got older, I realized that not only Germans do such things -- drunks in general tend to be sloppy when they drink.) 

There were milky maidens and singing nuns mixed in with these two male stereotypes, coming from storybooks and movies. Therefore, what we formulated was a picture of German speakers that were either very strict, shouting out commands in their choppy, unmelodic language, or those who were able to raise their own goats and live happily in the green hills of a lovely little Alpine town.


Google "german" in pictures, and this is what you get

Now that I have spent about a year-and-a-half here, I've had the opportunity to meet many real Germans. 

The first thing I can say without doubt is that most Germans I've met live in very clean houses. They maintain order inside and out; they sweep their sidewalks, they leave their shoes at the door, they have (lots of) rules about where things are put and how things are cleaned. 

And things are cleaned quite often. Germany is a very tidy country, and except for the occasional cigarette butt, blowing paper scraps or graffiti, you won't find much trash on streets or sidewalks. 

As far as the beer-drinking, leather-clad German stereotype goes, I have encountered very few like that, except in Munich, where there were so many people of all ages dressed in dirndls and lederhosen ("Trachten") that it was a feast for the eyes. Even young men my son's age wore the complete outfit, not just as a costume. It was how they dressed for festivals and special occasions, or maybe on a daily basis. I tried to picture my 25-year-old son doing the same, but I don't think he would honor such a tradition, unless a pretty German girl convinced him he should. 

In Bavaria, there are also lots of loud, sloshing beer drinkers gathered in one place at Oktoberfest, and that didn't bother me at all, except that we had trouble finding a place to sit down to drink and slosh our own beer.

As stated above, there is more order in a household in Germany, and if you create chaos, you might get yelled at. For example, where I live, I must clean and tidy after myself, just as I did at home in the States -- nothing's different. However, there is now a German following my every move and often looking over my shoulder, even when I do the smallest things, like placing recyclable bottles into a plastic bag or putting groceries into the refrigerator. Though I am of an advanced adult age, the German believes that perhaps I can't handle such tasks without his supervision.

You can make lots of mistakes in Germany, so be careful. Just this morning when I was about to spread some Leberwurst on my toast with a knife containing micro-molecules of butter, I heard loudly from across the table, "Keine Butter an der Wurst!

My worst experience with Germans so far was at the grocery store. I pulled up in front of the store on my bicycle after work. I locked my bicycle by the flower cart and walked into the store to buy a few things. After just a couple of minutes, I came back out and began unlocking my bicycle with the goods packed into my school bag, which was over my shoulder. When I had pulled up, two older German men were chatting by the cars parked in front of the store. They were still there when I was unlocking the bike. Behind me, customers were coming and going, and I felt the movement of the flower cart, so I assumed the one of the clerks was taking it inside. 

After only a few seconds, I heard, "Hallo. Haaaalllloooo. HAAAAALLLOOOOOOOOOO!!!!" The old men were yelling at ME! 

I had no idea what I had done until I turned around. The flower cart was rolling, alone, toward the cars parked in front the store. It occurred to me that I had bumped the cart with my bag, though ever so lightly. 

I was dumbfounded, motionless, and couldn't have stopped the cart if I tried. 

Then, by some act of God, the cart turned so that it was parallel lengthwise to the cars, and it went right between two of them, not touching either one. Not even a scratch. 

As I pulled the cart back up onto the walkway in front of the store, one of the old German guys was giving me the dirtiest look I've ever seen ANYWHERE. But the grocery store manager came out and was apologizing profusely. 

Later, as I reviewed the whole thing in my mind, I wondered why neither one of those old farts bothered to stop the cart or help me catch it. (It is here that I would interject cusswords, but I will abstain.) I don't know which German rule I violated that day, if any except for recklessness. Ever since, the flower cart has its wheels in LOCK position when placed outside. 

It's a good thing real Germans have mostly good characteristics. Being ordentlich, bossy, micro-managing, cruel and inhumane will get you only so far.



Friday, November 1, 2013

Halloween in Germany

Ach. My first Halloween in Germany. Etwas enttäuschend!

Last year, I was circling Great Britain around Halloween, because in Europe, you can zip off to foreign countries without spending very much money at all. I visited my "twin" Alan in Dublin, who was born on almost the same day as me, and then I headed south to England.

Halloween costume Norfolk-style

On Halloween Day 2012, I was in Norfolk, happily thrift shopping at King's Lynn charity stores with Joan -- an incredible woman and the sister of my entertaining friend Rob (photo above). Joan and I had a great day together. In addition to finding the best used clothing on the planet, we saw some little British trick-or-treaters, and stores were handing out candy. Though Halloween isn't celebrated in England quite like it is in the States, it didn't bother me that I missed it, because I wasn't at home. Anyway, retail therapy and a good cup of tea with Joan satisfied my every need. I even got my picture taken with a real bobby! 

And everyone spoke English. That's a plus.

Handsome bobby and me


Fast Forward: Heidelberger Halloween, late October 2013
This year, I would be in Germany on Halloween, and I would make the best of it. 

At school, we had a Halloween party on our last day before fall break. For some of the kids -- all of whom are at least half German or have grown up here -- it was their first Halloween celebration. They dressed up for our Halloween parade and party, and one little girl even came dressed in her witch costume a day early. Fellow teachers, classroom assistants, and one 10th grader helped decorate our lunchroom, making it frightening with the lights down low. We had kid-manufactured spiders and bats hanging from the ceiling, monster cookies, grape eyeballs, a floating hand in a pitcher of juice (thanks, Frau Bell!), bloody fingers (hot dogs and ketchup), rubber snakes and spiders, and other adornments. 

Just a small representation of the infinitesimal amount of Halloween frights at school

As chief American (the only American) and master of ceremonies, I let the kids in one at a time so they could soak up the ambience of the spooky stuff... and then we turned on the lights and blew out the candles. Kids wrapped their parents and classmates as mummies (with toilet paper), we played Hot Pumpkin (a version of Hot Potato), and we danced a little. Because it was the last day before a break, everyone over the age of 10 was pretty exhausted, except the kids of course, who played hide the IKEA rat 20 times before they grew tired of that game. 

Okay, so the buildup to Halloween wasn't so bad. There was active participation and it felt like Halloween, mostly. Our room decor topped any I've seen at any school ANYWHERE, and we even had a flying red-eyed bat. 

But you know that sometimes, with too much anticipation and great expectations, the letdown can be frightful.


HALLOWEEN - October 31, 2013, Viernheim, Germany

The day before Halloween, I bought three small, undernourished pumpkins (bad crop this year?), and we brought them home to carve. Surprising, the 4-pound pumpkins were easy to work with and cake to scoop out, for they had hardly any guts. After carving and lighting the two scary faces and a Halloween lights pumpkin, I felt our front walkway would be welcoming enough to little German varmints out on Halloween night. Or... we might not get any trick-or-treaters whatsoever! I had no experience with these matters, and Heinie, who told me we could wait to buy candy until Halloween, was no help at all. He knew NUTHINK. 



Alas, that was the entire problem. I had no help at all. 

Certain enough, the skies of Viernheim grew dark, and the howling and barking of dogs became rampant. Before I could complain twice that there weren't enough children filling the sidewalks of our neighborhood like they do back home at dusk, I saw little bandits dressed in dark clothing approaching! 

By this time, I had begun imbibing, because the resident ghoul at home was not talking to me (bad day at work and bad mood for the day), and I was far, far away from home on one of my favorite holidays. 

Perhaps the Germans don't understand. Obviously, Heinie hadn't a clue. Halloween is the spooky precursor to November: the month of my favorite Uncle Martin's birthday, Day of the Dead, the birthdays of many of my Scorpio friends, and then Thanksgiving!!!! Halloween a time that arachnids enjoy. Scorpions have a knack for scaring the crap out of people, and I am no exception. 

My drinking days behind me, I became quite intoxicated on one or two (or three?) Liquid Valiums (Crown Royal and Amaretto). Children were walking up the driveway and were about to ring. I had to frighten them, and being a drunk, middle-aged American woman in the middle of Germany was not enough! Thank goodness my Halloween CD was still in the player, and my sister had mailed a large bag of candy corn with my birthday shipment. I tore open the bag, filling a bowl, and I hit the play button on the stereo. 

Opening the door, I found 5 or 6 older children, mostly dressed in black. I couldn't tell what their costumes were, but mostly they had ghoulish masks. Perfect. I dug into the bowl of candy corn and adorned them and their bags with it, explaining what it was. I knew Germans were unfamiliar with candy corn. What I wouldn't have done for some individually-wrapped Gummi Bears, or even Snickers at that moment, but oh, well. One child said he didn't have a Tüte, and he opened up his hands to receive the candy. Not a one of them said "Trick or Treat," but it was a beautiful moment nonetheless.


Candy corn - difficult to find in Germany

After the kids left and I wished them "Happy Halloween," I stepped outside the door to listen for more. It sounded as if the streets of Viernheim were now overrun with little ghouls. I heard screams and loud gasps. I heard parents speaking in muffled German. I'd better get my scare ready once more. 

Children continued to visit our doorstep, and I counted about 20 or 30 kids. Not too shabby for a first Halloween overseas, but there were problems. 

The candy was not wrapped - a BIG no-no in America, because of all the razor blade and poison scares. I wonder if that razor blade thing was just a lie purported by the news media, backed by the candy manufacturers, so homemade popcorn balls and cookies would be banned from the Halloween bag? (That is a question calling for more research.)

I had no help. It would have been great to employ the services of the big ghoul with whom I reside. He has lots of scary knives, and he is tall enough to hold the red-eyed bat over the heads of the children. Or he could jump out from behind a corner and scare the living daylights out of young German children. Before Halloween came, he said he would help, but on the day of, there were barely words spoken. Das geht nicht. 

Next Halloween, we WILL have pre-wrapped, wahrscheinlich American candy for Halloween. And I'm either going to get some help scaring the children, or I'm fleeing the country. Shopping in England is a good option. 

Even better? Home for Halloween. It's not unheard of, is it? 

If I sound spoiled to you -- as if I should be satisfied with the German Halloween I had -- you're right. 

Halloween, since I was a little girl, was a favorite holiday. How else do you rake in a whole BAG of candy, all in one night?! No waiting for the Easter bunny. Trick-or-treating and other Halloween shenanigans were what we kids lived for every fall. 

As an adult, I began minor frightening from inside my front door after my son was old enough to trick-or-treat on his own and didn't want me around, dressing up in doom and playing scary music when the children rang. That progressed to setting up haunted houses in every place I lived in Colorado to a full-fledged haunted western town one year, with help from 20 of my best friends. Those were the days.

So yes, I'm spoiled. 

I know Viernheim isn't big on Halloween... yet. But we can change all that.

Happy November.


Dictionary
Das geht nicht. - That will not do.
etwas enttäuschend - somewhat disappointing
die Tüte - the bag (candy, paper, etc.)
wahrscheinlich - probably