Two Years in Germany

Today, May 31, is the anniversary of my arrival in Germany.

Two years ago today, tired but relieved, I landed at the Frankfurt Airport in the bright sunshine after an all-night flight. I proceeded to the trains with five bags in tow: two large and heavy suitcases, a small suitcase, and two collapsible bags jam-packed with belongings. There are escalators to be mastered at the airport, and a darker-skinned, good-looking, 30ish businessman in a snappy 3-piece suit helped me climb aboard the moving stairwells as I neared my train to Mannheim. Thanking him profusely, I asked how one says "gentleman" in German. Gentleman, replied the man, and I thanked him again. 

After clunking aboard the train to Mannheim surrounded by my baggage, I took the tram (Strassenbahn) toward the city of Viernheim in the state of Hessen. This is where I would work, at an international school I had applied to only three months earlier. Unfortunately, the tram stopped about 5 kilometers from my destination station, and I would have remained aboard and gone back the other way, had another kind stranger not told me to aussteigen. Oy vey, another lugging of the suitcases, off the tram, all five at once, crossing the tracks, looking for my ride to a place I'd never been. 

Finally I made it to the Viernheim Bahnhof, or main station, which no longer caters to bigger trains but rather only streetcars, buses, and taxis. Oddly, no cabs were there this time of day. Worse, I had no cell phone with which to phone anyone.  Two women with a stroller walked by, and I asked to borrow their cell phone. Up to this point, everyone was very nice, and I had remained exceedingly calm. How could I help but not be happy?! I was delirious with exhaustion, about to start a new adventure and fulfill my lifelong dream: living in Germany.

After arriving at the Schwyzerhuesli (hotel) and getting help from the owner lugging my stuff to the third floor (now I  realize why they call it "luggage"), I took a shower and a sizable nap. Ahhhh. Then I went out to look for a grocery store, snacks, bottled water and a prepaid telephone card for my old, reliable Blackberry. After walking around for at least two hours, getting lost, and going back to the hotel for directions again, I found the neighborhood Penny supermarket. It was right down the street. I had simply turned left instead of right, one time too many. Duh. But I'm not so sure I understood the German directions from the hotel staff in the first place.

Now I had a cell phone, and the hotel had wifi, so I could communicate again. I contacted one of my favorite people in the world first thing. Shortly thereafter, he -- my muy super bueno Swiss amigo -- called to welcome me to Europe, and it was one of the best phone calls I've ever gotten. 

He told me, "Cross your arms." I did. Then he said, "Cross them the other way." I did. "That's how it is being in a new country," he told me. It is not familiar, but it doesn't hurt, either. I would get used to it.

Indeed, it felt great to be on a new continent -- not visiting this time, but living and soon to be working. And now? It has become my home.

Yes, I remember that first day in Germany with clarity. I even remember the decor in my hotel room, and the lovely Dachfenster that I could peer out of, German skies all around. Now, exactly two years later, I've thought a little about what I've accomplished since I landed in Germany. 

I've eaten many pretzels and sausages... countless. (Of course my tally has to begin with food.) I've eaten lots of other things I would have never eaten before, such as Schweinehaxen and delicious, fresh Leberwurst from the butcher. I've grown addicted to pumpkin seed rolls from the bakery around the corner, and the Anatolien Turkish man makes the best Bauernsalat, Döner and French fries in a 50-kilometer radius. 

I've seen over 20 castles, and I've climbed up to most of those, touching their ancient stone walls with my comparably young hands. I even have favorites. There are many more to see. I've resided in three different "castles" of my own -- first a room above a kindergarten in Heidelberg, where I met many other nice teachers, then my own rooftop apartment in Weinheim with wonderful views, and now in a house in Viernheim with a garden and a fish pond. 

I've purchased an automobile, and I am driving on the Autobahn, and other roadways in Germany to boot, with nary an accident. I recognize what (most of) the street signs mean. I don't get lost very often anymore. I understand at least half of German radio news. I know which TV channels are educational and which are Scheisse, which are entertaining, and which show American programming (auf Deutsch, unfortunately). 

Now I know where the best grocery stores are in my neighborhood. I have a contract telephone plan with my new Blackberry. I have a much better job than the one I came here for, in a professional working environment with some very nice people who are a lot like me. I have a boss I respect, and who kisses me on the cheek from time to time. That's not sexual harassment in Germany. 

I've celebrated two Thanksgivings, two Halloweens (one alone -- BOO hoo), and one Christmas in Germany. I've gone to Weihnachtsmärkte in different towns, and I've drunk Glühwein at all of them. I made it to Oktoberfest last fall one day, and I even squeezed into a table with many other people for one delicious beer. I've drunk many, many bottles of locally-made wine -- it's kind of a necessity -- and I've eaten many, many pieces of Swiss and German chocolate.  

I've flown to England, Ireland and Italy since I've been here, but I really ought to go more places. I've been to Strasbourg, France, but I should really visit Poland, Switzerland, and other neighboring countries as well. I've been to the USA thrice in two years, and I'm going back again soon.

View from the path up to the Heidelberger Schloss, where I got news I was a grandmother on the 4th of July

I became a grandmother while here; specifically, it was on the 4th of July, just over two months after I arrived. At the time, I was touring the Heidelberg castle with an American friend. Somehow, the birth of such an amazing baby and the views in that spectacular place went together quite well. Sadly, I couldn't combine everything into one, due to geography. 

I've met many people, made some truly wonderful friends from all over the world, obtained a German boyfriend, ran a 5K, and am training for a 10K. The first item in that sequence is the most challenging of all, but I'm muddling through. Challenges are my specialty. 

I've learned lots and lots of German: many more words than Herr Moffat could teach me in high school and my German professor didn't have time to cover in college. However, there is soooooooo much more to learn, and I'm still just a novice compared to my German peers.

My biggest achievement might be maintaining my sanity in this country, though it has been tested (especially during these Wechseljahre). Adapting to life here -- something that seemed impossible when I first arrived -- does not seem so difficult now. 

There have been instances one might term "out-of-body experiences." These take place when I can't believe the things that I am doing, in a good way. At times like these, it is like I am not in my own body, and German life is moving too fast for my brain and consciousness to catch up. I do things I never imagined I would. For example, when I was sitting with a real estate agent and my soon-to-be landlords in their well-appointed living room, reading over a German lease and speaking limited German, pretending to understand most of what I was hearing, my mind balked at the scene and laughed to itself. You're actually doing this? I asked myself. Yes, I was. Incredible.

There have been several of those experiences, it's true, and I enjoyed them. Unglaublich! 

Remember, though -- nothing is ever too overwhelming. One can grab a glass of good German Rotwein with which to mull things over, or take a long walk in the beautiful German countryside or an old city. Grab a Lindt Williams candy bar to nosh on in times of stress, or call a friend. Truly, no German problem is too difficult to overcome, because I have so many great friends, and a wonderful family back home that I can visit when Germany needs a break from me, and vice versa. Das Leben ist gut. 

Happy Anniversary to me!

Wörterbuch / Dictionary

auf Deutsch - in German
aussteigen - deboard, climb off (trains, etc.)
Bahnhof - train station
Bauernsalat - farmer's salat (lots of fresh vegetables)
Döner - Turkish sandwich like a Greek gyro, served in flatbread with meat and sauce
Das Leben ist gut - Life is good.
Glühwein - hot, spiced wine
Leberwurst - liverwurst
Rotwein - red wine
Scheisse - shit
Schweinehaxen - pig's shank
Strassenbahn - streetcar/tramunglaublich - unbelievable
Wechseljahre -  menopause
Weihnachtsmärkte - open air Christmas markets